South Of The Border And More: 2/16/2015 Enchanting BCS

The BCS captured and enamored us today.

Dazed from two days of down time, we were anxious to throw our legs over and head toward the next adventure. What unfolded was a treasure map of the Baja. We plunged into the center of this narrow Penninsula, heading from desert to mountain to sea.

A breakfast stop in the village of Triunfo began our Baja love affair. Dirt roads lead to a small cafe, carved into the edge of a ravine. A giant old lady of a black Mastiff greeted us at the door and the smell of baked bread welcomed us into the Caffe Triunfo. A museum of eclectic wares, a Fatboy Harley and throw-back-century photos wandered us into a courtyard where an open oven baked our bread and made our huevos rancheros. We sat under flawless skies, surrounded by friends, iguanas, tropical plants and a big black friendly dog, savoring every moment of this flawless Mexican morning. The buttery fresh baked cinnamon buns pushed us to the edge of euphoria.

To haul ourselves out of this pleasure paradise was a chore, but once back on the road, our wheels dug in and Rascal took free rein toward the mountains. As cows bullied into our path we wound into the center of the Baja. Following convolutions into the mountain, we experienced the twistiest riding of the trip. At every lean over unguarded shoulders, a new view, a new thrill and changing terrain kept us alive. Stunning mountain peaks goaded us on until in one breathtaking downward plunge, the Sea of Cortez appeared between the mountains, like an Aztec turquoise.

Such blueness does not exist on any artist's palette. I can still feel the rush of joy filling me as we rounded each turn and another glimpse of the mountains melting into the sea transported me. With the wind in our faces and the sea below us, I felt like I was flying.

We stopped at an overlook and a dozen other bikes pulled in - the riders were from Germany. This road is truly a biker's paradise.

Reluctant to give up the ride, we ended our day in sparkling Loreto. Charmed by our evening home, we relaxed into balcony and wine.

Riding the mountains and the shore of the Baja taught me a new lesson about Mexico. In Cabo, I feared that the BCS would be an extension of California, complete with trendy bars and people. Here, the raw beauty has engulfed me. Few places that we have ridden have created such an intense rush. The thrill of this day will embrace me forever. The schizophrenic facade of this great country can show many personalities. Today, I fell in love with this one.